A Traditional Jewish Space
One of the
most significant features of Lviv quarters situated to the north of the central
part is the fact that a Jewish ghetto was located there for centuries. It was the
Jews who created the local color of this place's life due to their social,
cultural, and domestic practices. It is their representation that formed the
basis of the perception of the northern suburb on the part of the rest of Lviv
residents. The actual ghetto, a territory where the suburban Jewish community
lived densely, traditionally occupied an area not too large: on the east-west
axis, it was limited roughly by the Poltva river channel (now Chornovola prospect)
and the slope of the Vysokyi Zamok (High Castle) Hill, while on the south-north
axis it was limited by the city walls (now vul. Torhova and vul. Ivana Honty) and
Pl. Sv. Teodora (St. Theodore Square). However, with the development of the
Jewish community and the liberalization of the city norms and customs after the
Austrian rule was established, the Jews settled around the traditional ghetto
on a mass scale too, mixing with Polish and Ukrainian population and playing an
important role there as well. Thus, in the nineteenth century, the Jews occupied
an important segment of the local area in both "closer" and "further"
Pidzamche.
The massive
influx of the Jews to the city started in the first decades of the fifteenth century.
The rich and powerful (but not everyone who wished) could expect a place in the
ghetto within the city walls, while others settled in the northern
neighborhoods outside the walls. The so-called "starosta's jurydyka" (a jurydyka was a settlement
right outside or,
less commonly,
an enclave within a royal city, that was independent from the municipal
laws and rulers but instead remained under the jurisdiction of the ecclesiastic or
secular lord who
owned it)
functioned on the area between the Vysokyi Zamok Hill and the Poltva river, so
these territories were subjects to the starosta (senior) of the castle. The management
on behalf of the starosta was carried out by a burgrave; that is why the land
under the castle jurisdiction was also called a burgraviate. As Majer Bałaban, a well-known researcher of the Lviv Jews, observed, "for the Jews, the starosta rule was more
advantageous than that of the city as it did not impede buying and building
houses as well as engaging in trade, handicrafts and so on. This liberty of buying
and selling houses was determined by an old royal privilege, approved by
Zygmunt August on 1 October 1568, and by the Lviv starostas' privileges. (...) Unlike
the conditions in the city, there was full freedom of settlement in the suburbs
at that time. The Jews had to pay duties only "to the castle", but
always "on an equal basis with others" (Bałaban, 1909, 88-89).
Bałaban saw
reasons for special "free settlement" in "closer" Pidzamche
in the fact that this district was also home to many antisocial and dangerous
men like robbers, thieves, horse thieves and so on. Today, it is difficult to verify
the truthfullness of these conclusions. Perhaps, it would be more correct to
assume that life "outside the walls" was exhausting and dangerous and
urged local residents to resort to dubious ways of earning their living. These conclusions
allow us to understand how the "city" residents treated those who
lived in the northern neighborhoods. Outsiders saw this territory as a
dangerous, uncivilized place where formidable criminals could find shelter. Bałaban
mentioned the names of the most famous Jewish robbers: Dawid Konfederat, Awraam
Dankowicz, Heszel Juszko. Pidzamche fell into disrepute for a long time, and the
ill fame even came, in a modified form, till our time, becoming an important
element of symbolic and imaginary typification of the Pidzamche space.
Lviv
residents saw Pidzamche as a problem as early as in seventeenth century. What worried
the city residents most of all was the use of suburban buildings by enemy
troops during city sieges (enemies usually attacked on an open plain between
the Vysokyi Zamok and Kortumova hills which was a weak spot in Lviv's vicinities)
and frequent fires in the suburban wooden housing, which often went over to the
city. Finally, the city council decided to regulate the northern neighborhoods
according to their vision. Fortunately for Pidzamche residents, the members of
the Lviv city council failed to implement all their plans since the burgraviate
of Pidzamche was outside their jurisdiction. The only area that they had the
right to control were plots directly adjacent to the city walls. In 1624 a
contract was concluded between the city and the suburb, according to which the residents
were forbidden to erect buildings closer than "four hundred cubits from
the walls" (Schnür-Pepłowski, 1896, 11), while they were provided with
more distant plots free of charge. Consequently, the ghetto area shifted
slightly to the north, leaving a free space between the buildings and the city
walls. The residents of the northern neighborhoods were also given permission
to build a new synagogue on the place of the so-called "court of Poznan"
and a new street between the Poltva and the Benedictine monastery (Bałaban, 1909, 93).
So the
Jewish quarter got the spatial layout which can be seen today. The Krakowska
square was formed between the walls and the ghetto, and housing extended
farther, with the Great Suburban Synagogue ("Vorstater Schul"), built
at the same time, in 1624-1630, in about the center. Whole vul. Sianska (former Bozhnycha), occupied by synagogues and prayer houses, became a center of religious
life later. Among the sacral buildings, the main ones were the Small Suburban
Synagogue "Beth Midrash" (House of Wisdom), the "Hasidim
Schul" or "Beth Hasidim" synagogue (the first of the known
Hasidic temples, the so-called "kloyz"), the Great Beit Midrash of
the suburb. All of them were built in the late eighteenth century. Unfortunately,
however, they did not survive the German occupation. An important place of
Jewish life in the ghetto was also a ritual bathhouse "mikvah,"
located on vul. Lazneva, 5 (the building does not exist today). In "further"
Pidzamche, the oldest synagogue is considered the "Korite Schul,"
built in 1854; it belonged to the "Gomel Hesed" society (vul. Khmelnytskoho, 109) and was destroyed in 1941 too.
An important place of
Jewish Pidzamche was the Krakivskyi
(Krakowski)
market, which owes its name to the proximity to the Krakivska gate. For several
centuries of its existence, the market grew so much that in the first half of
the twentieth century it covered almost all of the "old" Jewish
ghetto. Jewish residents usually engaged in trade and small handicraft
businesses, so it was the Krakivskyi market or "Krakidały," as it was
popularly called, that most of Pidzamche residents profited from.